Big Day in Oaxaca City 18 Nov 2014

Posted on November 20, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

You might not think a botanical garden tour would be interesting …. would you? It sure was.

Beautiful reflection in the botanical garden

In the centro historico area there is a botanical garden – established only in 1994. The monastery was originally used by Monks, then the Mexican soldiers took it over to use for stabling their horses. This amazing block of land right within the city limits eventually became somewhat of a garbage dump. In 1994 a hotel chain planned to purchase the property and put up a huge hotel, shopping mall and parking. A well known artist, Francesco Toledo got wind of this plan and put forth a proposal to the government to turn it into a botanical garden, and this project was citizen led. One of the most interesting aspects of the garden is that it is created by an artist, not a botanist, so everything is laid out with an eye for art – creating beauty everywhere.

All the plants are indigenous to Oaxaca and many of them rescued and transplanted from areas where highways are being put in.

We saw a 400 year old barrel cactus that they brought in, weighing 5 tons!

This barrel cactus is over 5 tons and over 400 years old! It was rescued from an area where a new highway was going in. If you can see the purple flower there … it is called a Queen’s belly button!!

Apparently Oaxaca was a wealthy state at one time, with Spaniards buying the insects that feed off cactus plants. This particular insect was crushed to extract a deep rich red colour – which at the time was prized and only able to be used by royalty and the church. So much colour comes off one tiny insect. Vivian crushed a very small one against her palm and the depth of colour was amazing – a different shade on each person that tried it, based on their PH levels.

Just 1 little cochineal bug created all this colour!

The tour demonstrated a lot of ways that indigenous people used plants for survival, both nutrition and health. It was 2 k long, and 2 hours! The original water system is still in place and functioning, leading water throughout the property.

We lunched and started walking, surprise, surprise. Grants tour led us to the chocolate district, where we tasted a variety of the Oaxacan specialty chocolate. After picking up a few more vegetables at the market it was home for siesta.

Ready to be ground into chocolate!

Typical market vendor

Happy Hour finally! At last we had a chance to make our own guacamole and salsa and sit for a happy hour before heading out to dinner. When looking for a book store in town today we happened across a restaurant “El Quinque” that looked yummy. It sure was – we all loved it and came home with a jar each of their habanero salsa.

Happy Hour can’t be beat with the local supplies for guacamole and salsa!

Tomatillos of many colours.

this is the life ….

Tomorrow we are off to see more ruins at Mitla, a 2000 year old tree – El Tule, maybe some calcified waterfalls and a mescal factory – should be another full day!

Oaxaca!! 17 Nov 2014

Posted on November 17, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

We made it onto the flight to Oaxaca – I tell you – Interjet airline is the bomb. Loaded on time, lift off on time, big seats (compared to Air Canada) – a quick beverage of any kind, along with snacks, refills, and boom – touchdown in Oaxaca. Love it.

The taxi bounced over cobblestone streets to find our apartment – Casa Del Barrio. Oh My Gosh. Love it!! Turns out to have 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms a cozy living/dining area and a fully functioning kitchen. Not to mention 3 little decks! One off the front entry way, another off the kitchen and a larger one with hammock and outdoor dining set off the living room. That may all sound huge, but it isn’t – just very well organized. We will easily spend our week here!

Waiting outside Casa Del Barrio in Oaxaca for our host – Ricardo

We no sooner hit the streets and I was reminded why I love Oaxaca so much – streets are clean, wide, smooth and sidewalks are not only existent but they are well maintained. This beautiful old Colonial city has it’s Centro Historico designated as a heritage site and they have looked after that very well. The old buildings are just beautiful – so colourful and completely kept in traditional ways.

Everywhere you look – beautiful, well maintained buildings with flowers

Our wanderings took us into the central zocalo where they were in full long weekend festive mode – booths set up everywhere. Browsing the stalls we made our way to one of the mercados – and thankfully for us they still had a few vegetable vendors working – most were already in festival mode and closed down. We stocked up on fruits and vegetables for a couple of days as well as huevos (eggs), wine and beer.

The fruits and vegetables are just amazing – we can’t get avocado this good at home, and the tomatoes only taste like this in the summer!

Naturally we also bought Oaxaca string cheese

This morning Grant had us all on the road by 10:00 (yes, late for us) and we hailed a taxi to take us to Monte Alban – an archeological site first occupied around 500 BC – and at it’s peak probably around 350 – 700 AD. The Zapotec Indians occupied the top of a hilltop, and from that perspective you can see up and down all 3 valleys in the area, creating a Y. It is huge!

Monte Alban
This incredible site just goes on forever – so beautiful

No sooner do you climb a structure, and you see that it stretches out in front of you on another terrace altogether. Even at all sides of the developed or explored structures you can see remnants of ruins that haven’t even been touched. It is incredible to think of a nation of people that have still left such evidence of their existence that it can be pieced together all these years later.

Resting on top one of the climbs

Even Vivian is smiling after the climb!

Even Lonely Planet calls it one of the most impressive ancient sites in Mexico, and it is easy to see why, with it’s 360 degree views. Over 150 decorated underground tombs have been found in this site, although they aren’t available to view.

Just a few of the many carvings depicting the glories of battle wins.

We waited for a taxi to materialize at the top for a while, without success. Eventually one of the vendors flagged down a young worker from Monte Alban, and he gave us a ride down to town, for slightly more than the taxi out – a great deal since we didn’t see a taxi all the way back to town. I guess everybody was in festival mode in the city!

On arriving back in town we decided to eat Mexican style – Comida. This was a full meal – tortilla soup, bisteca with onions or chipotle (thinly pounded steak) that was presented with beans and guacamole, watermelon water, and finished with coffee and a brownie. 65 pesos. Yes, that is the equivalent of less than $5.00 Canadian. After all that exercise, sun and food – we retired to our home for a siesta. I think siestas came about after eating their big meal at this time of day ….

After siesta we went to La Biznaga for dinner …. Grant and I had eaten there years before, and honestly – the only thing I could really remember was the flan with mescal sauce ….. it was still on the menu! We enjoyed it just as much tonight …. yum yum. However, the biggest surprise was Wilson ordering a chicken dish with chappulines! (yes, grasshoppers) He thought they were pretty good!

Wilson loved his chicken dish – in a guava sauce, served with a big bunch of chappulines (grasshoppers) – so good!

Only in Mexico ….. a fancy restaurant, fabulous dinner, followed by our favourite dessert – flan with caramel mescal sauce and crunchy pecans and coconut – then wash up in a bathroom that looks like this! How can you not love this place?

More on Oaxaca to come – but be assured we are having a great time!

One of the many beautiful cathedrals – all lit up at night.

Eating in Mexico City

Posted on November 15, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

Every time we come to Mexico, which we try to do twice a year once the cold sets in at home, we spend some time in Mexico City on the way in and out. So much to see and do in this beautiful, crazy and inspiring place.

A few of our favourite places to eat while here are:

Con Sabor a Tixtla – Roma Norte – 206 Col. Roma – near Manzanillo & Medellin
This is typical food of the region of Tixtla – state of Guerrera
On our latest visit there we realized they are starting to sell some products brought from home also, tea, chocolate, and moles.

Con Sabor de Tixtla
I keep trying to get photos of their amazing food, but we dive into it as soon as it arrives!!

Con Sabor a Tixtla
The first thing that greets you once seated is a delicious array of sauces, and pumpkin seeds that are crazy good – soaked in lime then grilled on a wood oven

Maximo Bistro – Tonala 133, Colonia Roma

We first ate here a few years ago, and it has been a struggle to get back here, but we were determined, and a bit of luck helped out.

We enjoyed two types of ceviche, one of clams, and one of octopus – both absolutely delicious and had me wanting to lick the bowl. Just not done in one of the fancier establishments!

Just a sampling of our feast, scallops on a langosta foam
chicken on a bed of papas cream
short ribs
octopus ceviche

We followed that with:
organic chicken that was perfectly done – chicken moist and tender and the absolute crispiest skin you will find anywhere served with potato puree and a medeira reduction
seared scallops on a bed of mini cauliflower florets and draped with langosta foam
slow braised short ribs on a potato puree with rich gravy

Unfortunately, that left us too full for dessert – another excuse to get back there.

De Mar a Mar – Niza No 13 Esquina – Oslo
Another brilliant restaurant by the chef at Maximo – Eduardo Garcia of Maximo Bistrot
This time his focus is seafood.

We were greeted cheerfully by the staff and treated well – service was good without being intrusive.

Eric – one of the great servers at de Mar a Mar

Shrimp Tacos
I’m afraid my photography skills are far surpassed by my eating skills (in this photo at least!)

The simplest of the dishes did not photograph very well – but fish of the day was had in 3 ways at our table:
– the simplest of those was nothing more than grilled with a bit of butter – sublime
– pan grilled with a topping of garlic and shredded guajillo chiles was slightly more complicated but flavour out of this world
– lastly we had the Mexicana style, grilled with a typical in ingredient style Salsa, but so much more complex in flavour

Each eater thought theirs was the best – hard to argue.

We have also loved:

Luminaire – President Masaryk 493 – Polanco – 11560 Ciudad de Mexico
Yuban – Colona 268 Roma Norte – 06700

Sorry – no photos available until I get back there!

Some of the best food is on the street or in the mercado though … don’t be afraid to try it.

How can you ever pass up one of these stalls, brimming with fresh ceviche, or equally appealing with tacos and tort as??

Centro Historico 14 Nov 2014

Posted on November 15, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

With a day to play in Mexico City, we decided to head down to the Centro Historico area – the main zocalo. Initially we weren’t sure about that with the unrest in the area – but we kept checking the webcam and all looked peaceful so we decided to give it a go.

Love these pedestrian streets in Mexico City – leading from Zocalo all the way to Palace of Fine Arts

Luckily for us – it was peaceful! I’m afraid we don’t follow my brother Bruce’s mantra ….”Wouldn’t you rather be ON the news than watch the news?” No, Bruce.

Our tour guide Grant took us to a bead shop, and a fine gem shop.

Everywhere you look is something to see! Grant and Wilson are enjoying a coffee break sitting on a massive wood beam.

and … right above Wilson and Grant is this gorgeous light fixture!

We wandered about the zocalo, toured the magnificent cathedral and enjoyed the beautiful buildings along the way.

Just one of the many sights to view inside the Grand Cathedral in the Zocalo – hand carved wood overlaid with gold leaf. So impressive.

Along the way we stopped for tacos and headed to the Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes. The building itself is a phenomenal site, but once you get in the murals on the walls and the art in the galleries is incredible.

Palacio de Bellas Artes – as breathtaking inside as out.

In one gallery alone we saw artwork from Pablo Picasso, Georgia O’Keefe, Frida Kahlo, Jackson Pollock, Diego Rivera, and too many more to mention them all by name.

Just one of the many Diego Rivera murals inside the Palace of Fine Arts

Having written a couple post cards for Chloe, Owen and Sloan we stopped in to the post office to buy stamps and get them posted, although we will probably get home before the post cards get there! Even the post office is the most palatial building – we can’t even imagine such a thing at home.

Even the post office is worth a tour – built in the 1500’s and so elaborately finished.

A little siesta time at home before deciding where to go for dinner – during siesta the skies literally opened up – the rain was torrential! We tried to wait it out but when it didn’t look like that was possible we ventured out with bags over us and umbrellas held aloft. We got SOAKED. The thunder was crashing overhead – no taxis to be found, and even if we had found one the roads were totally gridlocked with every taxi in use.

Poor quality photo – but these hardy individuals are braving the torrential rain with thunder crashing overhead to find a restaurant in Mexico City!

My (well, our) dream has always been to return to Maximo Bistro – an amazing place we ate at a couple of years ago. The chef, Eduardo Garcia has become one of the most famous chefs in the city with his success and reservations are made months in advance, which honestly is just not our style. We weren’t too far from his place, so looking like drowned rats (literally) we took a chance that others would have been held up by the rain and we stopped in …… I was so excited that we got a table!!! Then when I took a photo of the chef he even stopped to give me the thumbs up and chat with me for a minute. Never mind that I was kind of standing in the bathroom to get the shot!

Eduardo Garcia
Chef and Mastermind behind 3 successful restaurants in Mexico city
Maximo Bistro
de Mar a Mar
Lalo

People wait months for a reservation at Maximo – we wandered in out of the rain, looking like the drowned rats we were and the empathetic Maitre D gave us a table. We were thrilled and proceeded to enjoy a fabulous meal!

Just a sampling of our feast, scallops on a langosta foam
chicken on a bed of papas cream
short ribs
octopus ceviche

I was twitter pated with excitement. By the time dinner was over the rain had also stopped and we had a leisurely stroll home.

Today we wake up to brilliant sunny skies and perhaps a last walk around here before getting on the plane for Oaxaca.

It is only possible to attach 2 photos to each email, but JUST IN CASE anybody is interested in seeing more, I have tried to use more photos when I blog these updates:

http://www.chattykathychatsandcooks.com

After all, I have only been using my blog for the cooking part. This morning I opened up my inbox to see a flood of people now following my blog!!

Teotihuacan 13 Nov 2014

Posted on November 15, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

Vivian and Wilson feel like they have walked enough for a week ….. ha ha ha – only 2 days in!

We ended up going out to Teotihuacan today to tour the pyramids – left the house at 9 to hop a subway or 3, then the bus, and eventually ended up at the archeological site. For Grant and I – this was our 6th trip, and it just never gets old. They continue to excavate and we saw a whole new area that has just been uncovered. The sheer majesty of the entire area is overwhelming.

TEOTIHUACAN
The Temple of the Sun

It took some convincing, but Vivian ended up making it to the top and we were all quite proud of her. Needless to say we took a few breaks – at each level, to catch our breath and climatize to the altitude. The view is breathtaking.

A bit of a struggle, but Vivian made it up – in all honesty – everybody struggled a bit … we will blame it on the altitude!

By the time we finished the Temple of the Sun it was lunch time so we left the site and went to eat at La Gruta – a cave behind the archeological site that has been operating since 1906. The food is okay, better than mediocre but more expensive than what it is worth in Mexico – however, you are paying for the experience, and that is worth something.

La Gruta Restaurante
~established in 1906 – in a cave!!
Right behind the Temple of the Sun

On top of the Temple of the Sun – with the Temple of the Moon in the background

One more large temple to climb, and the Temple of the Moon was waiting …. we weren’t able to climb to the same height, but the steps are steeper, and definitely had us panting.

As far as we could go on the Temple of the Moon – with the Temple of the Sun behind us

It was a long day, getting home about 5:00 and walking that whole time …. so really, we only had time for a quick beer at our apartment before WALKING to find dinner. We had read about a new seafood place – de Mar a Mar, and it was delicious!! Bonus – they had wine! I had my first glass of “nice wine” since leaving home …. ahhh. Viv and Wilson enjoyed the red. Grant stuck with the beer. A few years ago we ate at Maximo Bistro – incredible food and we have always wanted to go back – in the meantime the chef Eduardo has opened up this seafood place along with a breakfast spot. He is obviously doing well!

de Mar a Mar
Eduardo Garcia’s seafood restaurant in Mexico city
LOVED IT

Eric – one of the great servers at de Mar a Mar

Tacos de Cameron
We were too quick to dive into the other pescado dishes to get a photo!

Tomorrow will be our last day in Mexico City itself, so we will most likely go to Palacia de Belle Artes – a most magnificent palace of fine arts.

Hasta la vista

Just 5 more blocks …… 12 Nov 2014

Posted on November 14, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

Whenever we travel, walking is the primary activity – best way to see the places we go! However, today even Wilson, who walks a lot, was feeling the effects of walking for an entire day!

After a great sleep at our apartment, we set out this morning for breakfast at Las Bisquetas Obregon – a fave breakfast spot of ours that some of you have enjoyed with us …. Vivian and Wilson had their first taste of chilaquilles and thought it was a great breakfast (leftover tortilla chips in red or green salsa and served with your choice of egg, cheese, chicken).

We then hopped subway to go out to the Coyoacan area. Frida Kahlo was raised in “The Blue House” which she and Diego Rivera eventually bought from her parents and lived in. The entire area of Coyoacan is so beautiful, tree lined streets and an artsy vibe everywhere – just so relaxing and energizing at the same time.

Everywhere you look you will see monuments to Frida and Diego along with their art.

Prior to touring the Blue House (Museo Frida Kahlo) we hit the mercado for some tostadas – Tostado’s de Coyoacan caught our eye and we absolutely loved the fresh ceviche style prawns, crab and octopus.

We toured the Blue House Museum – complete with art from both of them and personal artifacts. Frida’s studio is completely as she left it, with her supplies where she last placed them before she passed away. Since we were last here they have unlocked a couple of rooms that were sealed at her request, and they now have exhibits featuring her clothing, more unseen art, and perhaps what is the most challenging to view – all the paraphernalia it took to help her stay upright, and mobile to the best of her ability. The exhibits are magnificient and her sense of fashion just exquisite. Some of the displays of her clothing that were just uncovered demonstrate just how much a fashionista she was. I would have loved to take more photos, but this just wasn’t allowed.

I did get some photos of a few pieces of art – seen here – along with a great photo of the kitchen and you know I love looking at kitchens!

We took a taxi back to our area, and walked over to the mercado to get supplies to make our own breakfasts, along with a bunch of fruit and veg for snacking.

After stocking up the fridge we set out for a little walk … ha ha ha – Grant’s infamous 5 blocks had Viv and Wilson both occasionally asking just where we were going, and if this place Grant had in mind actually existed. It did – photo enclosed, and we had a great dinner at Con Sabor de Tixtla. Not nearly as much complaining on the way back, especially because it was a much more leisurely pace!!

Con Sabor de Tixtla
I keep trying to get photos of their amazing food, but we dive into it as soon as it arrives!!

Tomorrow may find us exploring the pyramids at Teotihuacan or poking more around the areas of Mexico City – we will decide tomorrow!

Mexico Nov 2014

Posted on November 14, 2014 by Chatty Kathy

We’ve been to Mexico an average of twice a year for a few years now …. usually travelling around, avoiding the resort areas, and so far – have managed to avoid the “all inclusive” style of trip. Occasionally we travel with just the two of us, but have also made the journey with any number of our family members. This trip – long talked about, included my husband Grant and myself along with my cousin Vivian and her husband Wilson. Just 2 couples, none of our kids, no grand-kids, and no seniors … oh wait – we are sort of on that cusp ….

Hiking in Vernon, Kal Lake in the background – can’t believe the beautiful weather in October but we are raring to head out to Mexico.

The day started off with a minor glitch ….. I’m sure everybody has a story about forgetting a passport, right, or joked about the issues we have had arriving at an airport minus passports etc … ha ha ha – so funny, right????

Just as our driver was getting back into the car at the airport, after dropping us off – we said “last minute passport check” – Vivian said “oh yeah – mine is right in this pocket …………uh oh” ….. you wouldn’t have believed the look on her face as she then realized that their passports were still on the printer surface for copying…..

A quick phone call to Steve’s wife (they are house and dog sitting while Viv and Wilson are away) and the two of them met half way. Steve was back in record time with the passports and we were on our way.

We had left early enough initially so we were all good – the trip was super smooth, flights easy, and although it took our taxi driver a bit to find the place, he eventually did and Don Francisco was there waiting for us.

We are having a midnight snack of cerveza and limon chips … perfect way to end the day.

chattykathychatsandcooks

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Tag Archives: travel

Big Day in Oaxaca City 18 Nov 2014

Oaxaca!! 17 Nov 2014

Eating in Mexico City

Centro Historico 14 Nov 2014

Teotihuacan 13 Nov 2014

Just 5 more blocks …… 12 Nov 2014

Mexico Nov 2014