Eating our way around Michoacan and Guerrero, Mexico Jan Feb 2015

We travel for lots of reasons, but a lot of those reasons are food. Here are a few of our highlights in the Michoacan and Guerrero States area that are food related …… WARNING – you will either be hungry or booking flights to Mexico!

Whenever possible, if we are eating out for breakfast - this is it.  Chilaquilles solo, in other words no chicken or eggs, beans,  fruit with yogurt and granola, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee.  Doesn't get much better than this!  p.s.  I have discovered that it isn't "beans" I dislike … it is kidney beans!

Whenever possible, if we are eating out for breakfast- this is it. Chilaquilles solo, in other words no chicken or eggs, beans, fruit with yogurt and granola, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee. Doesn’t get much better than this! p.s. I have discovered that it isn’t “beans” I dislike … it is kidney beans!

If we are not eating out for breakfast, the way to start the day is with mango and avocado on toast … yum yum yum

If we are not eating out for breakfast, the way to start the day is with mango and avocado on toast … yum yum yum

Have you ever seen such cute little red potatoes?

Have you ever seen such cute little red potatoes?

Churros!  Eating at least 1 a day keeps everybody happy.  I honestly think the best ones are found in Patzcuaro.

Churros! Eating at least 1 a day keeps everybody happy. I honestly think the best ones are found in Patzcuaro.

We walked for ages trying to find this place in Patzcuaro - mainly because we took a few wrong turns.

We walked for ages trying to find this place in Patzcuaro – mainly because we took a few wrong turns.

Camerones cooked with guajillo chiles and garlic at Mariscos La Guera - so delicious.

Camerones cooked with guajillo chiles and garlic at Mariscos La Guera – so delicious.

Camerones al la Coco - I think the best coconut shrimp we tried.  Lightly coated in coconut and such fresh shrimp.

Camerones al la Coco – I think the best coconut shrimp we tried. Lightly coated in coconut and such fresh shrimp.

First time we have ever seen onion rings on a Mexican menu - given that onions are so delicious here we gave them a try and it was worth it.

First time we have ever seen onion rings on a Mexican menu – given that onions are so delicious here we gave them a try and it was worth it.

Pretty much every time you sit at a restaurant in Mexico you will receive some version of this … chips, lime, salt and various salsas.

Pretty much every time you sit at a restaurant in Mexico you will receive some version of this … chips, lime, salt and various salsas.

Now, not saying that Sabrita and Lays don't make awesome lime chips, but these fresh chips, with lime, salt and chile if you want it drizzled over top are the bomb.  Nothing beats them.

Now, not saying that Sabrita and Lays don’t make awesome lime chips, but these fresh chips, with lime, salt and chile if you want it drizzled over top are the bomb. Nothing beats them.

The Michoacan version of tortilla soup is indeed different, and we found a delicious version at Lupitas in Patzcuaro.

The Michoacan version of tortilla soup is indeed different, and we found a delicious version at Lupitas in Patzcuaro.

This beef based soup arrived loaded with vegetables and served with a small tamale.  It was so good I wish I could remember what it was called.

This beef based soup arrived loaded with vegetables and served with a small tamale. It was so good I wish I could remember what it was called.

Markets are full of amazing ingredients, make sure you shop here whenever you have the chance.  Here is dried red corn, ready for use.

Markets are full of amazing ingredients, make sure you shop here whenever you have the chance. Here is dried red corn, ready for use.

Fresh chicken is everywhere, usually with a yellow tint.  They feed them marigolds for that vivid colour.  You can have it as it, or they will chop it however you like - including trimming the nails.

Fresh chicken is everywhere, usually with a yellow tint. They feed them marigolds for that vivid colour. You can have it as it, or they will chop it however you like – including trimming the nails.

Right beside the chicken, you can pick out your favourite fish - again, they will prep it any way you like.  Go early in the day for the best, freshest selection, but don't be afraid to go.

Right beside the chicken, you can pick out your favourite fish – again, they will prep it any way you like. Go early in the day for the best, freshest selection, but don’t be afraid to go.

Just to confuse your nose a bit, these gorgeous flowers are right across from the fish and chicken……..

Just to confuse your nose a bit, these gorgeous flowers are right across from the fish and chicken……..

Gazpacho in Morelia is a bit different than what I was expecting, no tomato soup here.  This truly amazing and refreshing dish is finely diced fruit topped up with lime and orange juices, chiles, salt and cheese.

Gazpacho in Morelia is a bit different than what I was expecting, no tomato soup here. This truly amazing and refreshing dish is finely diced fruit topped up with lime and orange juices, chiles, salt and cheese.

The plastic cups are filled with an endless variety of minced fruits and vegetables.  We chose melon, jicama and mango and skipped the cheese.

The plastic cups are filled with an endless variety of minced fruits and vegetables. We chose melon, jicama and mango and skipped the cheese.

don't step on the kids in mercado

We came back to stay in Uruapan another night, primarily to go to La Mesa de Blanca – a restaurant we had heard about from many sources, and most primarily from “Mexico Cooks!” and “My Mexican Kitchen” … both proven reliable sources. This restaurant is incredible – up a dusty little road in yet another tiny Mexican village, Ziracueretiro. The food was amazing (I know, you’ve heard me say that before …) but it truly was.

This beautiful restaurant fills up in no time - only open Thurs - Sunday.  We got there ahead of the crowd, just as they were preparing to open.

This beautiful restaurant fills up in no time – only open Thurs – Sunday. We got there ahead of the crowd, just as they were preparing to open.

Grant's chile relleno was the best ever.  Filled with a Mexican version of chile that was outrageously flavourful.

Grant’s chile relleno was the best ever. Filled with a Mexican version of chile that was outrageously flavourful.

On a valued recommendation, I went with Huchepos con costilla y credo.  These "tamale like" creations are lighter and fluffier than a tamale, and those little pork rib lets were fantastic.

On a valued recommendation, I went with Huchepos con costilla y credo. These “tamale like” creations are lighter and fluffier than a tamale, and those little pork rib lets were fantastic.

No, we didn't also order conejo (rabbit) but this grilled conejo just looked too good to not get a photo!

No, we didn’t also order conejo (rabbit) but this grilled conejo just looked too good to not get a photo!

Totally unusual for us, but we ordered this yummy strawberry volcano and it was well worth it.

Totally unusual for us, but we ordered this yummy strawberry volcano and it was well worth it.

Famous for their fruit water, this zarzamora fresco (blackberry) was so refreshing.

Famous for their fruit water, this zarzamora fresco (blackberry) was so refreshing.

I’m not sure why we don’t cook pork shank as often as we do lamb shank at home, but after trying it in Mexico we sure will now.

Chamorro Adobado in Patzcuaro - pork shank in adobe sauce.

Chamorro Adobado in Patzcuaro – pork shank in adobe sauce.

Back in Barra de Potosi for a few days, and fortunate enough to stay with Eugen and Rita at Villas Tuparaiso – definitely our new friends. Their villas were full, but they have 2 rooms at their home which we were very happy to share with them. Such warm, welcoming hosts go a long way towards creating a great place to spend some time to relax, enjoy the beach and generally live a little bit of Mexican life.

One amazing reason for cooking yourself in Mexico is the abundance of fabulous ingredients. These shrimp cost 90 pesos for 1/2 a kilo – cleaned and ready to go.

Camerones con cebolla y ajo …. or shrimp with onions and garlic.  When you start with something so fresh, you just know it will be delicious.

Camerones con cebolla y ajo …. or shrimp with onions and garlic. When you start with something so fresh, you just know it will be delicious.

Add those shrimp to some grilled zucchini and the meal is perfecto!

Add those shrimp to some grilled zucchini and the meal is perfecto!

Should you have an opportunity to use one of these mocaljetes to create your salad dressing. or sauce of any kind - go for it!

Should you have an opportunity to use one of these mocaljetes to create your salad dressing. or sauce of any kind – go for it!

Or … grill up some tomatoes, habanero pepper, onions and garlic.  Use this to crush it into a salsa or sauce and pour it over grilled veg and pasta.

Or … grill up some tomatoes, habanero pepper, onions and garlic. Use this to crush it into a salsa or sauce and pour it over grilled veg and pasta.

Both a mango and papaya trees created shade on this screened porch for restful reading in the hammock … someone needed to be using it while I created in the cocina … (kitchen)

Both a mango and papaya trees created shade on this screened porch for restful reading in the hammock … someone needed to be using it while I created in the cocina … (kitchen)

Surf behind me … perfect pool to float in after riding the bikes for 30 minutes to this beautiful little spot.

All along Playa Blanca you will find little spots like this to rest, swing in the hammock or float in the pool with the waves crashing on the beach.  If you are looking for more people …. just go to the centre of it all in Barra de Potosi - lots of palapa restaurants there - especially busy on long weekends with Nationals hitting the beach.

All along Playa Blanca you will find little spots like this to rest, swing in the hammock or float in the pool with the waves crashing on the beach. If you are looking for more people …. just go to the centre of it all in Barra de Potosi – lots of palapa restaurants there – especially busy on long weekends with Nationals hitting the beach.

From Villas Tuparaiso we would walk the main drag to pick up vegetables, fresh seafood or chicken …. pretty easy to find anything you want within this little stretch.

From Villas Tuparaiso we would walk the main drag to pick up vegetables, fresh seafood or chicken …. pretty easy to find anything you want within this little stretch.

Miles of white sandy beach at Playa Blanca.

Miles of white sandy beach at Playa Blanca.

Eugen (host of Villas Tuparaiso) and his lovely wife Rita graciously hosted the Superbowl in their bedroom - the only place in Barra de Potosi where the boys could watch the game.

Eugen (host of Villas Tuparaiso) and his lovely wife Rita graciously hosted the Superbowl in their bedroom – the only place in Barra de Potosi where the boys could watch the game.

Now, this is my size pool - as much as I hated to miss the Superbowl game …. I managed to console myself by floating around on the air mattress.

Now, this is my size pool – as much as I hated to miss the Superbowl game …. I managed to console myself by floating around on the air mattress.

Every beach you go to in Mexico will have musicians entertaining the locals at the palapa restaurants.

Every beach you go to in Mexico will have musicians entertaining the locals at the palapa restaurants.

Hasta la vista la playa …. we are leaving Zihuatenajo area and heading back to Mexico City for our final couple of days.

Hasta la vista la playa …. we are leaving Zihuatenajo area and heading back to Mexico City for our final couple of days.

Zihuatenajo

Something about beach life just makes everything slower …. like sleeping 9-10 hours a night …..

The sun slipping over the horizon in Zihuatenajo

The sun slipping over the horizon in Zihuatenajo

In the past we have stayed at Angela’s Hostel – it is now named Angelita’s Hostel – but closed and up for sale. We chose a smaller hotel right down the street – Fiesta Paraiso. The beds are super hard, but otherwise the rooms are comfy and clean – and the pool is delightful. If we only had a kitchen it would be great for a longer stay. And – 400 pesos per night which is pretty close to perfect.

Poolside at Hotel Fiesta Paraiso - pretty easy way to relax after a busy day at the beach ...

Poolside at Hotel Fiesta Paraiso – pretty easy way to relax after a busy day at the beach …

Along with beach towns comes a more limited menu and every little beach palapa will pretty much have the same thing on the menu, so pick the place with the comfiest looking chairs! We did yesterday – at Los Gatos beach and enjoyed a great day in the sunshine, swimming, reading and chatting with Canadian neighbours … yes, only Canadians at our little chosen spot. The couple next to us – Alison and Rauz, are a retired couple from Kelowna and they stated we have given them the encouragement they needed to explore a bit more, in particular Mexico City. No doubt we will get together at home to share a few notes! (and maybe a glass of wine)

The beach at Los Gatos - an easy water taxi ride over from Zihuatenajo - beautiful water, lots of loungers to relax in - just watch out for those guys trying to help you in and out of the boat - they are not official in any way, and will want a tip for helping you!!  (whether or not you need it) :o)

The beach at Los Gatos – an easy water taxi ride over from Zihuatenajo – beautiful water, lots of loungers to relax in – just watch out for those guys trying to help you in and out of the boat – they are not official in any way, and will want a tip for helping you!! (whether or not you need it) :o)

After our return from the beach we wandered up to a place recommended – Taqueria Papas Loca. This place takes baked stuffed potato to a whole new level. They had a whole row of baked potatoes ready to go, which they then stuff with your choice of fillings; I chose bacon, shrimp and tomato, Grant chose tacos al pastor, pork and pineapple. They were delicious! Huge too … we really should have shared!

These guys work crazy fast - choices of toppings go onto the grill surface, cooked up and diced while the other guy opens the potato, stirs in sour cream and butter, mixes it all in together, toppings applied, cheese applied, lid on to steam it a bit, and presto … whew.

These guys work crazy fast – choices of toppings go onto the grill surface, cooked up and diced while the other guy opens the potato, stirs in sour cream and butter, mixes it all in together, toppings applied, cheese applied, lid on to steam it a bit, and presto … whew.

As you can see - you are pretty much sitting in a parking lot.  There is some seating indoors also thankfully under a fan.  This place is crazy busy and the staff work like frantic bees rushing around.  Just as many takeouts as eating in.

As you can see – you are pretty much sitting in a parking lot. There is some seating indoors also thankfully under a fan. This place is crazy busy and the staff work like frantic bees rushing around. Just as many takeouts as eating in.

Today’s activity was much like yesterday …. beaching it! We walked to La Ropa beach and sat ourselves on the lounge chairs, much like the other Canadian and American tourists and sunned ourselves, swam in the waves and read our books – this after a 10 hour sleep!! When we were exhausted form all that activity we dragged ourselves upstairs and enjoyed a massage with the sound of the waves crashing while we had a very therapeutic massage – those girls really knew what they were doing.

La Ropa Beach at Zihuatenajo

La Ropa Beach at Zihuatenajo

ahhhhhhhh

ahhhhhhhh

Walking back we noticed an Italian getting his place ready to go, so ordered a Napolitano pizza (he is from Naples, and this is his specialty), tomato sauce, anchovies and capers. It was delicious, and we ate that as an appie beside the pool.

Tomorrow we are heading out – perhaps to Barra de Potosi, a very small beach town not far from here …. if it has adequate internet access you will no doubt hear from us there!