Mexico City, revisited!

Mexico itself is a country full of contrasts, and truly evident in the city.  Grandiose architecture and magnificent art galleries alongside signs of poverty.  In that I am sure every major city in the world is similar.  What is very different are the smells – walking down any given street you have the contrast of delicious meat grilling, fresh cucumber being sliced or …….sewage.

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The contrasts between old church spires, modern buildings and electrical mayhem are everywhere!

If you haven’t been to Museo Soumaya yet, then please try to get there.  Built by Mexico’s wealthy Carlos Slim in honour of his wife the entire structure is amazing itself, but once you get in and have the opportunity to view the largest collection of art work you simply won’t believe it.  His son in law designed the place and it is as elaborate inside as out.  The different floors wind up along inside the building so you are either slanting in or out, depending on which floor you are on.  The displays change somewhat too, the last time we were here an entire floor was devoted to Sophia Loren.  Better still, it is free admission!

Sculptures by Rodin, paintings by Van Gogh, Renoir & Matisse to name a few, you can wander here for hours.

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The “Gates of Hell” was a particularly masterful piece, and just huge.

We were pretty fortunate to be in the city for longer than we have before so thoroughly enjoyed both eating out and touring art galleries and museums.  It is literally impossible to not eat well in Mexico City.  From spending mere pesos for a street taco to dining in one of the more elegant restaurants it is always less than we would spend at home and the food is fantastic.

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Try a roadside tostada, in this case shrimp ceviche.

Or – if you are fortunate enough to have a cozy place like we did, just pick up a rotisserie chicken for dinner.  This Columbian chicken dinner was 110 pesos, and fed us for 2 nights.  Not only that, it was incredibly delicious.  Under the skin they had rubbed an amazing herb blend and that skin was something Auntie Brigitte would have fought for ….

If you can’t find what you need at a mercado, then you either don’t need it, or you aren’t in the right mercado.  Smiling vendors are raring to sell you whatever you need, at a very reasonable price and guaranteed to make you smile too.

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In case you haven’t tried it ….. these large sheets below are pork fat.  Yep, pure pork fat fried up in all its goodness.  Mexicans eat it by the sheet, and as tasty as it is, we find a few crumbles on guacamole or in a soup are enough to hit the spot.

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Palacio de Bellas Artes – or the Fine Arts building.  Inside it is even more impressive with murals and incredible art galleries.  We have yet to make it to one of the traditional folk ballets they feature here, but one day ….

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Viewed from what was at one time the tallest building in the Americas, the Latin America building:

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Take the elevator to the top of the Latin America building and you just won’t believe how far you can see – particularly on a clear enough day when the smog isn’t too troublesome.

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Is there anything better than travel with family?  We think not!  Our youngest granddaughter Liv is already loving Mexico City as much as we do…

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Take some time at Chapultepec Park and Castle, well worth it to wander around, enjoy both the park and the walk up to the castle.

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These little guys are everywhere, hoping to catch the popcorn or peanut you drop.

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At the top of Chapultepec Park is the  Castle, as you can see not an especially brilliant day – smog combined with cool cloudy weather.

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Not sure if I was meant to live in a more elegant time or not, but I sure could have become accustomed to my bedroom and bathroom looking like this ….. Who am I kidding though, I would have been one of the servants!!  ha ha

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Imagine playing hopscotch or soccer inside these hallways … the stained glass is just incredible.

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Museum of Anthropology …… take a day.  In just over 3 hours we managed to view one side of the 3 you see here…. it is a touch overwhelming, but absolutely amazing and a must see.

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The reproductions of actual structures of ancient cities are so well done it is easy to imagine civilization as it was.  Just love the colours – and can picture how vivid the homes were.

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Amazing murals everywhere telling the stories of each civilization.

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And …. once you are worn out from walking your feet off (on this particular day we walked 13.3 kms….) it is entirely justified to stop and have a pastry … our favourite is La Boheme, situated next to Mercado Roma and serving up the most amazing pastries along with a perfectly Vivian size mug of hot chocolate.

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In Mexican culture, the mid day meal is very important … they linger over it, usually taking hours, and they certainly enjoy their alcoholic beverages along with it.  In fact, in a busy lunch spot like this, I think we were the only table without!

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Hungry for a light lunch or just a snack?  This tuna tostada is light, refreshing, and absolutely delicious. Contramar is one of the seafood restaurants in Mexico City that you must try to get in to.  Like many great places, they are only open for the main meal of the day, from noonish until 6ish.  Yes, that is how long lunch can be ….

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Oyster Bar in Mexico City?  Definitely!!  La Docena Oyster Bar has an impressive array of seafood choices and these oysters were so fresh and sweet we had 2 plates.  Incredibly delightful and this plate of raw oysters probably cost about the same as a small plate of chicken wings at home.  The crunchy oysters on top of the salad were a perfect crouton, and the sandwich a treat.

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Reforma is one of the busiest streets, and yet every Sunday morning they close it to vehicle traffic and it is full of Mexican families out exercising, bike riding, roller blading or doing dance classes.  Such a great idea, and I just wish we thought to do that in some of our major cities as well.

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Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera are much loved in all of Mexico, and the museums dedicated to their lives and art are plentiful.  This particular one is in San Angel, which is a beautiful neighbourhood in the city, very artsy and upscale.  Saturday market holds some of the most tempting pieces you will find anywhere.

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Every neighbourhood has a spot like this to sit and enjoy peace and quiet.

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The Frida and Diego museum is actually one of their former homes- in this case they each had their own home, created by an architect friend.  See the walkway above to join the two?  Small bedrooms but huge art studios! (Frida’s house was the blue one, no surprise there, given the Blue House Museum in Coyoacan)

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Time for another snack in the park ….

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Well, it’s taken me some time to get this blog on Mexico City completed, but it is time to move on to the beach at Puerto Escondido.  We always seem to find a lot to do in DF, so I’m sure we will be back.

More to love about Mexico City 08 Feb 2015

We have finally hit on the perfect hotel – it works with Grant’s budgetary restrictions and my level of comfort. To top it all off, it is in the perfect Roma Norte/Condessa area. Full of fabulous restaurants and art everywhere you look. Such beautiful neighbourhoods to walk through, all from Hotel Milan on Avenida Obregan. We’ll be back here for sure.

Obregan is a pretty big street, but as you will often find in Mexico, the centre divider is like a walking park - full of statues, fountains, and ongoing art projects.

Obregan is a pretty big street, but as you will often find in Mexico, the centre divider is like a walking park – full of statues, fountains, and ongoing art projects.

In any direction, within a few blocks, you will find a park.  Again - statues, art installations and fountains.  This one provided a rainbow today.

In any direction, within a few blocks, you will find a park. Again – statues, art installations and fountains. This one provided a rainbow today.

Mexicans love their dogs, and this dog park even has snack stands to buy dog treats.  You wouldn't believe them lined up patiently to get their treat.  You also wouldn't believe the number of well behaved dogs in the park without a single problem.  Oh - and one pig, but I wasn't fast enough to get a photo of the little porker.

Mexicans love their dogs, and this dog park even has snack stands to buy dog treats. You wouldn’t believe them lined up patiently to get their treat. You also wouldn’t believe the number of well behaved dogs in the park without a single problem. Oh – and one pig, but I wasn’t fast enough to get a photo of the little porker.

in this district, you can find anything including a plethora of hair stylists.  We took a chance and armed with minimal spanish (and a photo from Shae) I decided to get rid of a bunch of hair, and a lot of grey …. turned out pretty darn fine.

in this district, you can find anything including a plethora of hair stylists. We took a chance and armed with minimal spanish (and a photo from Shae) I decided to get rid of a bunch of hair, and a lot of grey …. turned out pretty darn fine.

When in el DF we usually make good use of the subway - fast, efficient and super cheap.

When in el DF we usually make good use of the subway – fast, efficient and super cheap.

Wandering down towards the main zocalo we spotted a group of indigenous women setting up the knitting they had brought in from their village.  Sloan bought a sweater from these exact women a couple of years ago.

Wandering down towards the main zocalo we spotted a group of indigenous women setting up the knitting they had brought in from their village. Sloan bought a sweater from these exact women a couple of years ago.

Also near the zocalo a group of nuns are famous for their massive paella.

Also near the zocalo a group of nuns are famous for their massive paella.

Only in Mexico will you be treated to a fish taco joint that has such a selection of salsas and toppings for your tacos.

Only in Mexico will you be treated to a fish taco joint that has such a selection of salsas and toppings for your tacos.

And - the tacos.  Absolutely delicious.

And – the tacos. Absolutely delicious.

This Sinaloan style ceviche served on a tostado was equally fabulous.

This Sinaloan style ceviche served on a tostado was equally fabulous.

We had lamb consomme (which really just means soup here) along with our lamb tacos for breakfast.  Grant's bowl had some body part we truly couldn't identify - but the soup was outstanding!  (No, neither of us gnawed on it)

We had lamb consomme (which really just means soup here) along with our lamb tacos for breakfast. Grant’s bowl had some body part we truly couldn’t identify – but the soup was outstanding! (No, neither of us gnawed on it)

I think this is one of the best photos I have managed to get of the cathedral at the zocalo in Mexico City - no protests going on, no ice hockey set up, no crowds.

I think this is one of the best photos I have managed to get of the cathedral at the zocalo in Mexico City – no protests going on, no ice hockey set up, no crowds.

No matter what your sweet tooth is craving, you will find it on the streets of the city.

No matter what your sweet tooth is craving, you will find it on the streets of the city.

Rather have some savoury snacks?  Here you go.

Rather have some savoury snacks? Here you go.

Whatever you do, shop in the mercados - the best and most amazingly fresh fruit and vegetables are found here.  (or trucks on the side of the road)

Whatever you do, shop in the mercados – the best and most amazingly fresh fruit and vegetables are found here. (or trucks on the side of the road)

We are going to miss the plentiful and fresh avocadoes.

We are going to miss the plentiful and fresh avocadoes.

Still in the mercado?  Pick up anything from the rotisserie master - pork shanks and chicken grilled to perfection.

Still in the mercado? Pick up anything from the rotisserie master – pork shanks and chicken grilled to perfection.

On pretty much any street it is easy to find Tacos Al Pastor, grilled pork with pineapple and onions, alongside the rotisserie chicken.  Don't be afraid to try any of this - you definitely won't be sorry.

On pretty much any street it is easy to find Tacos Al Pastor, grilled pork with pineapple and onions, alongside the rotisserie chicken. Don’t be afraid to try any of this – you definitely won’t be sorry.

Con Sabor y Tixtla - just another fabulous restaurant that presents their salsas and grilled tortilla chips to start your meal.

Con Sabor y Tixtla – just another fabulous restaurant that presents their salsas and grilled tortilla chips to start your meal.

Con Sabor y Tixtla.  If a restaurant looks this inviting, you just know the Guerrero style food is going to be as much of a treat.

Con Sabor y Tixtla. If a restaurant looks this inviting, you just know the Guerrero style food is going to be as much of a treat.

The organic, upscale craze has hit the wealthier regions of Mexico City also - this incredible market has the best of everything.

The organic, upscale craze has hit the wealthier regions of Mexico City also – this incredible market has the best of everything.

Did I mention the best of everything?  These Portugese tarts are a mouth watering combination of the flakiest pastry I have ever had and the creamiest custard like filling.  Carmelize the top and it is worth dreaming about.

Did I mention the best of everything? These Portugese tarts are a mouth watering combination of the flakiest pastry I have ever had and the creamiest custard like filling. Carmelize the top and it is worth dreaming about.

Jugo Verde - can be bought almost anywhere, and slightly different everywhere.  Fruit and juice combo loaded with refreshing goodness.

Jugo Verde – can be bought almost anywhere, and slightly different everywhere. Fruit and juice combo loaded with refreshing goodness.

Okay, not in Mexico City - this was in Eronga - but how can you not be entertained knowing these guys might be behind or in front of your vehicle.  Truly, we have seen a live goat loaded into a trunk in a very busy section of Mexico City though ….

Okay, not in Mexico City – this was in Eronga – but how can you not be entertained knowing these guys might be behind or in front of your vehicle. Truly, we have seen a live goat loaded into a trunk in a very busy section of Mexico City though ….

That taxi will be arriving for us before 4:00 a.m. (yes, I do mean in the morning) and it will be Hasta La Vista Mexico … but certainly Hasta luego – we will be back. With all that Mexico has to offer we have barely scratched the surface. Having spent our few hours back in el DF eating and looking at all our favourite spots we are ready to go home. Well, I am. As much as I love the travel, I look so forward to what we have waiting at home even more.

Hope you have enjoyed our sights, and certainly the flavours of Mexico.

Mucho amore